Back in the Old Domestic Saddle
November 17th, 2008Some ten days ago we arrived back home from our epic caravan tour of Central Australia and some SA wine-growing areas. It is always an easy transition from caravan life to existence in our suburban house, but back home both my wife and I have unaccountably endured insomnia and damnable aches and pains. It is a mystery why this is so, because in the caravan we have about 4 square metres of floor space, which means lots of twisting and bending into cupboards and drawers, and deft sashaying past one another. Perhaps we became fitter with all the walking entailed by desert tourism; I lost 2 kg, so that’s a bonus.
Our route has been as follows:-
• Melbourne to Bordertown (SA), Crystal Brook, then Port Augusta, lying on the edge of the desert outback.
• Drive 536 km in one day to the fabulously strange opal town of Coober Pedy, via strange town of Woomera. Do tour of Coober Pedy, seeing the opal mines, the coloured Breakaways, the Dingo Fence, your underground mines and houses, buy expensive opal pendant.

• Go to Alice Springs via overnight at Erldunda. Do tours of the township, all-day tour to points along the West Macdonald Ranges, have a spontaneous helicopter ride over Glen Helen Gorge, which was fabulous. There were no doors - yikes! See a night-time Didgeridoo show (in which I got to play the drums briefly). Stay over a week in Alice, enduring high 30s heat most of the time. Whew! We drank lots of water.
• Drive 400 km down from Alice (via Erldunda) to see Ayers Rock and the Olgas. Although seen many times on TV, these rocks are truly awesome. We walked a lot around their bases - again in high heat.
• Drive 300 km up to Kings Canyon, doing a small walk to the canyon. In the camp there are signs warning about dingos, and sure enough, one walks past our caravan, bold as brass! Next day we see another ferreting around in the belongings of a nearby camper-trailer, trying in vain to get at some foodstuffs. We have a second helicopter ride (in a bigger one, with doors) over a mountain range with fascinating domed-rock formations. We can see the cliffs, gullies and canyons with clarity.

• Drive back down to Coober Pedy (again, via Erldunda) and go down another opal mine. Then on to Port Augusta. Along the way we find one caravan window is gone, possibly sucked out by the vacuum as one of the monstrous road trains slams past! Make temporary repairs from sheet plastic and duct tape, which has to last 1500 km until home. Thence to a quaint little town of Quorn, on to Wilpena Pound, in the ancient mountains of the Flinders Ranges. Here we do a hair-raising 4WD tour into a sheep property amongst the mountains, followed next day by a flight in a light aircraft over the stunning Flinders Ranges which stretch for a hundred kilometres in undulating beauty.

• We drive down the the town of Clare, savouring the greenery of wheat fields and freshly-sprouted vineyards after the red-brown-ochre stony desert with its spinifex and saltbush. We discover the lovely Clare wine district, and spend some time visiting some of the lovely old properties and sampling the wines. We start buying bottles of wine.
• We go south to Nuriootpa, in the Barossa Valley. We savour the beauties of this region, almost wallowing in the lovely scenery, the old wineries and of course the alcoholic vineyard fare. We buy more bottles of wine to take home.

• We drive back towards Victoria to Hall’s Gap, via Horsham overnight. After several nights there, we tour another winery, Great Western, and buy more wine, and then head for home. The city smog, the traffic, and the experience of being constantly surrounded by semis and other trucks on the freeways is unpleasant.
• We arrive home after 6 weeks on the road, travelling 7,500 km, spending $1024 on accommodation, $2750 on 1611 litres of petrol, $1400 on tours and flights, and $700 on 35 bottles of good wines. Now we’re a bit broke, but recovering.
• We saw all that we had aimed to see, did even more than we’d thought to do, retained our general health throughout, with judicious, sometimes copious use of pain-control medication, discovered a great deal about Australia, and are overwhelmed by the beauty of it all, including the stark, primaeval quality of the deserts. Our car ran OK, and we only had a damage to a caravan window, which can be fixed.
And so we can truly say “Mission Accomplished”.
Back to ordinary daily life, which isn’t so bad after all.




